FAQs

Q. Insurance for diamonds
We have insurance through Allstate, but is there a better company with less expensive insurance cost? - Hampton

 I would first determine what type of policy would be best for you and your family. Generally, I recommend a “Cash Value” or “Agreed Value” policy for jewelry, which can be purchased from Chubb, CNA, Lloyds, or others. It would be best to ask an independent agent this question. This way you know you will collect the “agreed value” of the item; they write a check with no argument.
Many insurance companies are selling jewelry themselves and are trying to compete with jewelers on replacement of items. I think this is unethical, because they are trying to argue a value, when they have an interest in the outcome. When an appraisal does not contain all elements necessary for an accurate replacement of “like kind and quality” (which is very common) then those details are up to the insurance company to determine, hence they will replace at a lower value than insured.
Remember that insurance companies always win if they can settle a claim for less than the insured value. Most appraisals are so poorly written that they do not contain full details or accurate descriptions. Choosing a good appraiser is very important (see my previous answer on “Appraisals” for more details). The more details the better, because there is less to negotiate in the event of a claim. If the “claim” is already negotiated, as with an “Agreed Value” policy, then there is really nothing to negotiate; they write you a check.
The main problem is that so many people are trying to “work the system” to their own benefit rather than play a fair and honest “game.” For example, it is common for a person to see a ring priced at $9000, but which the jeweler will sell for a “good deal” at $6000; to prove it he will write a flawed (and probably fraudulent) appraisal for $12,000, to show what a good deal you really got. (The appraiser, of course, claims that he has no interest in the value, even though he just sold the item.
It also lacks details because he thinks he is safer by being vague on the replacement; besides, he is not a Gemologist and doesn’t really know what the quality is in GIA standards anyway.) The person is glad to insure the ring for $12,000 (thinking that the insurance company will actually give him this money), because he can get a “better” ring from the same jeweler if it is lost or just “cash out” and make money on the deal. The insurance company is glad to collect premiums on such an item because they think they can replace the ring for $4500.
It works for all parties because everyone thinks they are getting away with something, until there is a loss. When there is a loss, the customer is the one to suffer. He has been paying premiums for $12,000 but he will only receive $4500 or less, for the loss, the price the insurance company claims they can replace the item for. The insurance company may even go through the jeweler to begin with and get the better price (I say woe to the jeweler who gives a better price to an insurance company than a customer; it is wrong but it happens at other stores.
Why should a non customer get a better price than a customer?). The insurance company may choose to replace it “in house” whatever that means, in order to lower the costs to themselves. In this event the “replacement” should be evaluated by an appraiser, to determine if it is “like kind and quality.” Just because the insurance company “claims” they can replace an item for less, doesn’t mean it is true. Sometimes it is useful to hire a good appraiser after a claim, if not before.
At this point, because a professional did not properly write the appraisal, it is hard to argue exactly what “like kind and quality” really is. This is the determining factor for the claim and is where negotiating with the insurance company comes down to. If the insurance company is replacing with inferior quality, then a good appraiser can determine this. The major retail insurance companies generally do not offer “Agreed Value” policies, and often in my experience do not pay the full value of the claim.
I would want to get insurance somewhere else where I know what the terms and conditions of replacements are. This topic is a problem in the insurance industry and ours. I hope my answer has not created more questions than you started with.

Q. Average price for an appraisal
What is the average price to have a engagement ring and wedding band with diamonds appraised? Also, do major jewelers purchase jewelry from the general population? - Virginia Beach

A. That will depend on the appraiser and the type of appraisal needed. An appraiser has nothing to sell but his time, so the price will depend upon his time for the job. An appraiser cannot have an interest in the value outcome, or this would be a conflict of interest. A qualified appraiser is defined in a previous question under “appraisals” in the “Ask the Expert” area. An appraiser should not perform an appraisal and then make an offer for the item. I recall a case from a famous show on appraising where the appraiser did just that, offered a price for the property appraised and he then turned around and sold the same property (within six months) for ten times the value appraised. He made about $600,000 on the deal but lost it all when a judge ruled his appraisal to be fraudulent. It sounds like you would like to sell your rings rather than have them appraised for insurance or the IRS. An appraisal for cash value would give you an idea of what to accept in terms of an offer; but you would likely accept the highest offer anyway. If all offers are lower than the appraised value, would you sell the rings to the highest offer anyway? If so, then do not spend money on an appraisal. Otherwise, seek out a professional appraiser using the guidelines I listed in the question on “Appraisals.” Make sure that the dealer has a license to buy and sell from the city, when seeking a place to sell your items. Most jewelers do not have the license and should not be buying from the general population. A store or pawnshop may not be the best place to sell your rings; sometimes auctions are a good place to consider.

Q. I would like to have a diamond ring reset, where should I go?
My mother in law gave me a beautiful diamond ring that is set in an old fashion setting. I have no idea od its worth. It has 5 diamonds of varing size. I would like to find someone repritable to put it in a different setting. - Virginia Beach

A. Please bring them in. We will gladly take a look and make sure the diamonds have not been damaged from wear and are worth resetting. We can then recommend types of settings for you and them. We are very careful with heirlooms like this. In many cases it is best to restore the ring rather than reset the diamonds.

Q. What if I want to change the yellow gold in my wedding ring to white gold or even platinum?
My ring is a solitare with a wrap band that has a uniquely beautiful setting. Will you exchange the yellow gold for the white gold or platinum and approx how much would it cost?? I don't want to just dip the outside of the band as I know it will rub off sooner or later. - Suffolk

A. If you want white metal, you would be best served by platinum, as white gold tends to “yellow” over time. You will not recover much from your old ring other than scrap; you might want to keep the original for one of your children or grand children and set a birth stone in place of the diamond. The wrap could be replaced as well or kept for a two-tone look. The price will vary with the size of the diamond and the wrap and of course there will be some labor for resetting your diamond.

Q. Price of diamond stud earrings
What is the price range for a 1 ct. (total) pair of diamond stud earrings? - Virginia Beach

A. The price will vary with the quality of the cut, color clarity and carat weight as well as the mounting itself. The toughest comparison will be the cut, as it is the least quantified. Also, many stores do not hand select each diamond for each earring, so there can be considerable variance even within the same store, depending on the manufacturer. For large chain stores, there will be a large range in quality, rather than a set grade for each diamond. I suggest making sure each diamond is the best you can find and then set them in earrings; this is what we do. This way you are sure you are getting the best available, rather than what happens to come in from a supplier. You will likely want to budget at least $2500 for a nice pair at most good stores in the area, and $3000 to $4000 for a premium pair, and more if you want better color, cut or clarity. Less than $1500, and you are likely looking at commercial diamonds of lower quality I do not think you would be happy with over time. Realize that there is almost always something available at all prices, even 1.0 carat total weight earrings. There are alot of stores offering "great deals" which are not so great, if you knew all the facts. I have seen industrial diamonds set for earrings that were priced under $500, but they were not even fully faceted!

Q. Care of emeralds & tanzanite
What is the best way to clean my emeralds and tanzanite rings? Also, is any "preventative maintanence" required? (oiling, etc) thanks very much for your time! - Virginia Beach

A. Tanzanite is very brittle because it is heat treated to draw its vibrant color. It should never be subjected to an ultrasonic, but could be cleaned with a soft toothbrush (not toothpaste, as the old wives tale goes) and diluted Mr. Clean. Emeralds have often been dyed and oiled to mask inclusions and improve color. In fact, there are so many treatments of emeralds, it is best to have a knowledgeable jeweler clean it. In the absence of one, use very diluted Mr. Clean with a soft toothbrush and do not let it soak, as any treatment could come out or loose if it has been resin filled. If your emerald appears to have lost some of it's color, you might consider mixing baby oil and green dye and soak it for a few minutes. If you are not comfortable with this home remedy, take it to a knowledgeable jeweler for restoration, repair, or replacement. For additional information, go to our web site, davidnygaardfinejewelers.com and look at our education page, where you can read all about both gemstones.

Q. Asking your man to marry you
I am involved with a wonderfull man. Normally I would wait for him to pop the question, but I can't wait. I am so in love with him that I want to know now. I am really nervous and have never been in this situation before. What do I say. How does a man react to popping the question. I know women want the romance and spontenanity.. so what about men. How would a man really want to be proposed to. I have children and have been married before. He has no children and never been married. He has become the man of our house. Not only has he taken responsibility for all of us, but he has given all of his heart to each of us.. That is pretty amazing. He has become not just a parental figure but the center of my children's lives and mine. So I would like to propose to him in a manner that would express how deep not just my love is but my children's. How much our lives have changed and improved since he became a part of it. Our family is now finally whole. - Norfolk

A. Well, now this is the toughest question I have had to field yet! Now I may be a bit old fashioned, but I still believe that a man ought to be a man enough to give you a ring with a proposal, or he should not presume to hold your exclusive attention. I believe that the ring is symbolic of his willingness to sacrifice of himself for your good; to put your interests and the interests of the family ahead of his own. You know, diamonds are formed by extreme heat and pressure, and so are the strongest relationships. It sounds that there has been plenty of heat and pressure already in your household; the difficulties of being a single mother are too numerous to go into here, but needless to say, you should be commended on surviving that trial and congratulated on finding a man worthy of yours and your children’s affections. My suggestion is to let him do the asking. Let him be the leader now and he will be a better leader of the household when you need him the most. Isn’t that the kind of husband you want? Someone who is there and willing to make the tough decisions during times of crisis, willing to make that decision in light of what is best for the family and not himself. This to me is the essence of the good father and husband’s role. While I do not do it perfectly, I strive to. Now I have to confess that most of us men are a little slow to recognize when we have what we really have hoped for versus what we think we want. Particularly when we think we want something else, because of the glamour of a television lifestyle. We hope deep down for exactly the story you have told: a family that needs us, wants us, and loves us. It seems to me that he should see things the way you do and you may not know what surprise he has been planning for this moment. He may be a little slower than you to come to this realization, but I am sure he is on the way. You do not want to beat him to the question. All the best blessings, David Nygaard

Q. What if I have no ring for my man
I asked you "How do I propose to my Man".. now here's the kicker.. What do I do if I can't afford the ring to go with the Proposal? So I have a ring? If not, would the proposal be real or authentic. Is it offensive? Is my Love enough to propose with out a ring? Any suggestions what to use instead of a real RING? Maybe a peice of string? I am at a loss. - Norfolk

A. Having responded to the first question, now to go for the “kicker”. I think it is appropriate to give a gift that demonstrates your feelings toward him and makes him feel a welcome part of your life, including your family. What you are describing is an important gift that represents your relationship, so it needs to be equally important, but not necessarily expensive; sad to say the string idea won’t fly with me. It should be more permanent. I would suggest a gold ring, maybe a signet ring, or a nice watch. You could even give a nice pen or pair of cufflinks. Whatever, I would suggest you engrave something to commemorate the gift, and give it in a way that will be memorable; it is especially good if you can give it in a way that he can tell the story to others whenever he has or uses the gift. It could be engraved with something simple like the date with your initials or longer like a poem or Bible verse, if appropriate. You do not need to spend a lot of money, but I would think that a couple hundred dollars would do the job. There are many other ways to show your feelings. You could make him a special meal and have your kids (depending on their ages) make him a card or draw him a picture. I treasure the cards my kids make me (of course my kids may be younger than yours, I have six, six and under!) You could even send him an E mail card- I just got a great one from my wife for no other reason than she loves me-which is the nicest card to get. As to engagement rings, or the older “betrothal ring”, this needs to be more permanent as it symbolizes a “covenental” relationship which involves certain promises and rewards. I can tell you that these rewards of a good and lasting relationship with someone you love and who loves you for all of your flaws, is one of the greatest miracles of this life. Grace and peace, David Nygaard

Q. Tiny Black lines...
I have a 1 and a half carat princess cut diamond ring...It was bought for me by my husband....It is set in platinum..and is gorgeous. However, if I look closely at my stone it looks as though it has tiny little black lines inside if it...Only a few, and noone else notices. I have asked people before and I have heard everything from....."its a bad quality diamond" to..."It has little cracks in it" It is an absolutley gorgeous ring...I wouldn't give it up for the world...But do you have any idea what those little lines or specs are?? Thank you. PS. I know the cost of the ring and it was emense. I just hope my husband didn't get a real bad deal...He went through so much to get it... - Newport News

A. First of all, I am sure he did not get a “bad deal.” The “black lines” could be reflections from the cut, as this is a common occurrence with princess cut diamonds, or possibly, they are tiny “birthmarks”, or inclusions formed within the diamond. I would have to examine the diamond before providing an accurate diagnosis. It is common for you to notice things about your ring no one else would because it becomes an extension of yourself when you wear it daily. It is also common to get the types of comments you have gotten; it is like going to a party and having the guests, none of whom are doctors, come up with a diagnosis of your back ache. Though you may have dropped by a jewelry store to ask their advise, it is unlikely you have spoken to a Gemologist from GIA. To get a better explanation, ask a professional, who will not get mad because it was not purchased at their store. My advise, is to enjoy your gorgeous ring and don’t forget to tell your kids the story of how hard your husband worked to find the perfect diamond for an obviously wonderful wife. You must mean a lot to him to deserve such a beautiful ring. All the best, David Nygaard

Q. The Price of Opals
Why is it that some of the Opals are not too expensive and others cost as much as fancy diamonds? - Chesapeake

A. Like all gemstones, opal will vary in price with the quality of the stone. Diamonds will vary too, but there is broader knowledge about the relative difference in diamond qualities (for this you can access our web site or review some of the past questions). I am not aware of any opal that exceeded a “fancy” color diamond, but perhaps this is true. The majority of opal sold in the US are “doublets” and “triplets,” meaning that they consist of a layer of opal with either (or both) a black onyx back and a quartz dome (thanks to man’s help), to make the opal look bigger and better. The FTC requires the disclosure of this, but often salespeople are not aware. The most valuable opal come from the Lightening Ridge mine in Australia and are typically black opal with exceptional play of color. Opals are very soft and sensitive, which lead to the myth that only people born in the birth month should wear them; for others it is bad luck. Opals are best bezel set and should not be exposed to rapid changes in temperature (like taking a roast out of the oven and then getting ice for glasses from the freezer). Sand imbedded in the crystal can weaken the stone, causing it to spontaneously crack without trauma; for this reason, most jewelers require you to sign a waiver before they will repair one. A fine opal is a wonderful addition to a jewelry collection, and if worn with proper respect can be enjoyed for generations. All the best, David Nygaard

Q. Buying a diamond engagement ring
Where is the best place in the Tidewater area to buy a diamond ring as far as value, selection and service is concerned - especially value? - Va. Beach

A. I appreciate the question and hope I can give completely unbiased advise. At least, I hope I can give you some things to consider when selecting a store. Diamonds are very difficult to price compare because the critical determination of value, the cut, is not easily quantified. Even with the American Gem Society cut grade, it does not provide the best way to buy a diamond. The AGS cut grade is based on a two dimensional study of light from a 1919 paper. We know that light travels three dimensionally, and therefore must be considered more fully when evaluating cut. I have addressed this in my web site where I have linked to two GIA articles by Dr. Ilene Reinitz. We talked at length about the dilemma about addressing cut and felt that the only way to get a good value was to rely on a knowledgeable Gemologist. We use some patented equipment to help the customer see how the light travels through the diamond effecting cut. Most people rely only on a comparison of diamond weight, clarity and color in price shopping and are quite surprised to find a staggering variety of prices. If you look at all four quality characteristics, and how they effect each other, (this is critical to getting a good value) you can, and will, come a lot closer to the perfect diamond then you ever thought possible. What constitutes a “knowledgeable Gemologist” is worth considering. I have found that many people sell diamonds, even “wholesale”, but do not really understand diamonds. These people are very sincere, but are often sincerely wrong at times. A diamond ring will be one of the largest purchases you will ever make and one that you will live with for forty years, if you are average. I would therefore make sure I shopped at an independently owned, local, store that has good credentials, as a business, like membership in the American Gem Society (where one must meet the highest industry standards for membership), and Better Business Bureau. I would only want to deal with a Graduate Gemologist (GIA) at minimum, and preferably a Certified Gemologist Appraiser (AGS), or Master Gemologist Appraiser (ASA). I address these titles more fully on my web site and in a response to a question in December. The Master Gemologist Appraiser must maintain an accredited Gem lab on premises and be tested annually for knowledge and ethics. As to value, this is very subjective, as some people need more service than others do. However, there will almost always be a cheaper diamond someone is willing to sell you "at or below wholesale", as the saying goes. Beware of these “great deals.” Diamonds are well controlled and similar qualities will not vary much in price from similar stores, unless the store is not completely forthright, or honestly mistaken, in their representations. I would add finally, that most stores will work hard to make sure you are satisfied with your purchase, so do some homework and shop around. Oh yes, and please consider David Nygaard Fine Jewelers; I hear the owner is a nice guy! All the best, David Nygaard

Q. Loose diamond
The diamond on my engagement ring continually comes loose. Each time I have it tightened it lasts about 3 months then it starts to loosen again. I have a 1.12 carat round stone in a 1 carat platinum setting. A jeweler suggested that my setting size may be too small and a larger setting, 1.25, may be in order. I do admit I am hard on my jewelry but this doesn't seem right. - Chesapeake

A. I would like to see the ring in question before forming an opinion. As to the size of the head, that is usually the goldsmith’s preference. I have worked with people who prefer to set in a larger and also a smaller heads. If the head is spread too far, it could be an explanation, but unless your diamond is very shallow and wide, I don't think this is the case. What is more important is the setting itself, and making sure the "notch" in the head fits the diamond. Some jewelers use a pre notched head, rather than cutting the prongs to fit your particular diamond. If this is the case, then that could also explain the problem. If you did in fact hit the diamond and unseat it, which is possible, then that would explain why it needs continual tightening. Finally, you might consider a six-prong head instead of a four-prong, even in platinum, as it would provide more security to your diamond. All the best, David Nygaard

Q. Restringing Pearls
What are the benefits of having pearls professionally restrung as opposed to doing it yourself with dental floss? I've heard convincing arguments for both views. - Virginia Beach

A. Cultured pearls should be re-strung annually in order to reduce the friction that can build up between the pearls as they rub against each other; the more they rub, the more the nacre can be damaged where the pearl was drilled for the hole to string. If this happens, the pearls are permanently damaged. Thus, the benefit of having a professional do the stringing. Silk or nylon composite thread is traditionally used for its strength and ease of stringing. I am not aware of any benefits of using dental floss, but there is no reason why you cannot learn how to string yourself. Make sure the knots are tight and if you use the proper sting, they will not stretch as much. The Gemological Institute of America offers a correspondence course on stringing which I recommend, or you can check out some books from the library. You can go to the GIA web site through our web site and find out more. All the best, David Nygaard

Q. Watch faces
I was just wondering is there any way to protect watches, and especially watch faces from being scratched?? I just received a beautiful watch for Christmas and I already scratched it several times... and this was simply from wearing it to work!!! Please advise. Thanks. - Portsmouth, VA

A. There is no effective way to protect your watch face other than to purchase a more scratch resistant crystal. Most crystals are plastic and will scratch easily, having a hardness of 3 to 4 on the Moh’s scale. Some are mineral with a Moh’s hardness of 6 and some are hardened mineral with a hardness of 7. The best is a sapphire crystal, which is used on most Swiss watches with a hardness of 9, like Sapphire the gemstone, only this crystal is synthetic sapphire, grown in a lab. Grace and Peace this New Year, David Nygaard

Q. Appraisals?
I have some jewelery my mother gave to me. Some is costume and some is "real". I need appraisals done for the "real" pieces for insurance purposes. What is the going rate for appraisals? And how do I find someone qualified to perform the work? - Virginia Beach

A. My wife’s aunt likes to diagnose friends and family illnesses. She is pretty good, but never went to medical school and never had to pass any state board exams. I love her dearly, but I wouldn’t pay her to be my doctor. So is it with appraisers. Many jewelers perform appraisals, and perform them badly. Being in the jewelry business or even being a Graduate Gemologist does not qualify a person to perform appraisals. A professional appraiser can best be found through an accredited appraisal society. There are two that stand out for high standards of membership and conduct, The American Society of Appraisers and the International Society of Appraisers, both of which can be accessed through our web site. The ASA is the only society, which is a member of the Appraisal Foundation, recognized by Congress. It is important to note a common misnomer that there exists a title, “certified appraiser.” No such title exists. Indeed, Virginia does not set standards for personal property appraisers and the insurance industry generally does not have high requirements either. This leaves many options when searching for an appraiser. Beware, a poorly written appraisal can cost you big dollars. There are several titles you should be aware of. Most insurance companies require at the very least a Graduate Gemologist from the GIA, though I have seen some accept a Guild Gemologist from the DCA, which is a less rigorous course. In both cases, valuation science techniques are not included in the curriculum. I would not recommend having either perform an appraisal. It is best to have an appraisal completed by Master Gemologist Appraiser from the American Society of Appraisers. This ensures that you are hiring a true professional, who is required to have continuing education, regular color vision tests, and an accredited gem lab. The absence of any of these requirements can place you at risk if there is a dispute regarding the appraisal. A Master Gemologist Appraiser must meet the highest standards for both gemology and valuation science. They must keep current on their information and be able to determine the proper grades of gemstones, especially color, hence the color vision requirement. Being a Gemologist and having the training will do little without the equipment to perform the task, therefor a Master Gemologist Appraiser must maintain an Accredited Gem Lab. Perhaps the most misused title is that of Certified Gemologist, and Certified Gemologist Appraiser. Both are trademark titles of the American Gem Society and only available to Society members. The Certified Gemologist is a Graduate Gemologist with additional training in cut, while the CGA has additional training in valuation. Non-Society members often use both titles. You should verify these credentials before accepting someone claiming to be “certified”. As to fees, an appraiser must be objective when assigning value. The IRS specifically requires that the fee not be related to the value; it is unethical to perform an appraisal for a percentage of the value, so most appraisers charge by the hour. The difference often lies in the amount of education the appraiser has. It is important to know that you get what you pay for. An appraiser who must certify through a board will typically charge more than one who does not. Because an appraisal is a statement of value, a true appraisal cannot be performed by the jeweler who sold the item because the jeweler has an interest in the value outcome. This document has been labeled by the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (which is also linked to our web site) as more properly, a “Statement of Replacement Price” and should be used when trying to obtain insurance for your jewelry. It is common practice yet unethical for a jeweler to assign an inflated value over the purchase price in order to show the customer they got a “deal.” It is also unethical for a jeweler to assign a low value in order to convince a customer to shop with them, yet it is a frequent tactic. It is also common practice by the insurance industry to issue policies and collect premiums on values known to be dramatically inflated. Consumers often think they will get the amount of money they have insured and so they will look for the highest appraised value. When there is a claim on the policy the consumer is often shocked to learn that the insurance company will only pay pennies on the dollar for such items. For this reason, I recommend getting a professional appraisal with an accurate value and then using an “Agreed Value” type policy. With this type of policy, there is a cash settlement built into the policy and no arguing over the value or replacement of the items. Because most appraisals are not professionally written, most insurance companies do not accept the value as written, but rather assume there is an inflated value for replacement. I could write several more pages on this subject, as it is a problem for the insurance and jewelry industries. I hope this clears up at least some of the questions you have. All the best, David Nygaard

Q. What is an estate piece?

A. An estate piece can be classified as any piece that has been previously owned. It is unethical and in some cases, illegal to sell previously owned jewelry as new. Estate does not necessarily equate with an antique. In fact, there is no legal definition of an antique piece of jewelry from the Federal Trade Commission. Some estate items are very old, the most popular of which come from the 1920’s and 1930’s. However, most are relatively new. Several years ago, some retailers got in trouble with long return policies of up to 90 days. In some cases, the jewelry was returned after the 90 day period and placed back out on the show room floor. A court ruled that those items were previously owned and could not be resold as new. Even though they were only worn for three months, they qualified as “Estate.” “Estate” is a pleasant way of disclosing that the item has been previously owned. If you want more information about a collection, then inquire as to what period the “estate” collection includes. There are several periods worth noting, which include: Victorian, Art Deco and Art Nuvo, and Retro. Each period has distinct characteristics and are in high demand. In my family, we treasure some of the very old pieces as they come with wonderful memories. My wife has a ring that my great grandmother was given in 1906. When she wears it, I often think of the great times I had playing cards with my great grandmother long ago, and I remember how much I miss her. But, I still have a ring that her eyes looked at everyday. I think that is the beauty of old estate pieces. All the best, David Nygaard